Skincare Truths: What You Should and Shouldn't Do Now

As a master esthetician with decades in the industry, I've seen trends come and go faster than most people change their pillowcases (which, by the way, you should be doing weekly!). On a recent episode of our Facially Conscious podcast, Dr. Vicki Rapaport, Julie Falls, and I dove into some timely skincare topics that I wanted to share with my fellow skincare professionals and enthusiasts.

The Castor Oil Comeback

Let's talk about castor oil—that thick, viscous oil that seems to be having its millionth renaissance moment thanks to TikTok and YouTube. As I mentioned on the podcast, "Castor oil has been around for a million years and it comes in and out of the industry constantly." Dating back to ancient Egypt, this oil has been used for everything from digestive issues to beauty treatments.

The current claims? It supposedly grows eyebrows and eyelashes, helps with arthritis, and works as a super-hydrator. But what's the truth?

While I've personally used castor oil for digestive purposes (yes, it works!), I'm skeptical about many of the beauty claims. Dr. Vicki noted that it's "mildly comedogenic" and can be beneficial when mixed with moisturizer: "I would tell them to drop a couple of drops, just a couple of drops in their palm with their body cream. Mix it in with their body cream and then put their body cream on because the castor oil will really keep it, will seal it and really occlude the moisturizer."

But for lash growth? There's no scientific evidence. And putting it near your eyes can be risky—Julie experienced swelling after trying it, and eye doctors have cautioned against this practice.

My professional take: Castor oil is fine for dry skin on the legs or as a digestive aid, but proceed with caution around delicate areas like the eyes. And remember, if there were solid scientific evidence for all these miraculous claims, we'd have seen proper studies by now.

Expiration Dates Matter—Really!

One thing I'm passionate about is getting people to respect expiration dates on skincare products. The beginning of the year is the perfect time to audit your skincare collection and toss anything past its prime.

I recently had a client who returned after four years abroad, proudly telling me she still had a product I'd recommended. My response? "That's four years old... it needs to go into the trash."

Here's why this matters: Preservatives don't last forever. When they expire, the ingredients can actually become harmful to your skin and cause inflammation—which is the biggest ager of all.

Dr. Vicki shared a great tip: "Look at the box, look at the expiration date on the bottom of your product, with a Sharpie write 12 months." Most products, once opened, last about a year (maybe two at most).

For skincare professionals managing a practice or spa, this is crucial knowledge to share with your clients. Implementing a system to track product expiration dates in your treatment rooms can also prevent waste and ensure optimal results for your clients.

The CO2Lift Carboxy Mask: Oxygen Innovation

Dr. Vicki introduced us to an exciting treatment that's gaining popularity: the CO2Lift carboxy mask. This technology uses carbon dioxide to increase the affinity of hemoglobin for oxygen, effectively oxygenating the tissue.

"The mask, it's on for about 40 minutes. It really does oxygenate the tissues, not forever. But the skin feels dewy, it looks dewy, it's really nice for like a red carpet event," Dr. Vicki explained.

What's particularly interesting for skincare professionals is its versatility—it can be used after procedures like lasers and microneedling to calm inflammation. There's even an at-home version available for clients to maintain results between professional treatments.

For medical spas and dermatology offices looking to expand their treatment menu, this could be a valuable addition that bridges the gap between medical procedures and esthetic treatments. It's exactly the kind of innovation that helps differentiate a practice in today's competitive landscape.

The Psychology of Marketing: A Cautionary Tale

Perhaps the most concerning trend we discussed was the aggressive marketing of skincare products to children as young as 10. As I noted, "Humans as a species have been around for a long time and there's never been children using skincare. It's definitely a trend right now, a marketing trend."

Dr. Vicki has seen an uptick in parents bringing their pre-teens to her office, asking which of the seven-step routines their children want to buy are actually safe. Her answer? Unless there's a specific skin condition like acne, eczema, or psoriasis, children simply don't need elaborate skincare routines.

"Your cell turnover and your skin is working perfectly well at 10," I emphasized. "You don't need hyaluronic acid as a 10-year-old. You don't need any antioxidants. You don't need moisturizers. Your skin is doing all this for you."

The only product children genuinely need? Sunscreen.

This trend highlights the importance of ethical marketing in our industry. As skincare professionals, we have a responsibility to educate rather than exploit. When developing service menus and product recommendations for your practice, consider what your clients truly need rather than what will generate the highest revenue.

The Esthetic Concierge Perspective

Working with dermatology offices, medical spas, and estheticians across the country, I've seen firsthand how challenging it can be to navigate these constantly evolving trends and technologies. What works? What's just marketing hype? How do you integrate new treatments into an existing menu of services?

The most successful practices are those that prioritize education—both for their staff and their clients. They're selective about the trends they adopt, focusing on evidence-based treatments that deliver real results. They understand that their credibility is their most valuable asset.

Whether you're a solo esthetician, a dermatology practice looking to expand your esthetic offerings, or a medical spa director trying to optimize your treatment menu, staying informed about what you should—and shouldn't—be doing now is essential to your success.

And remember, you don't have to figure it all out alone. Sometimes, bringing in an experienced consultant who understands both the clinical and business aspects of esthetics can save you years of trial and error.

What skincare trends are you questioning in your practice? I'd love to hear your thoughts! info@estheticconcierge. you can also schedule a consultation

Trina Renea is a medically-trained Master Esthetician and the founder of Esthetic Concierge, helping dermatology offices, medical spas, and estheticians optimize their skincare offerings and business operations.